On the edge of the Mediterranean, Israel boasts ancient sites from the Crusades, Ottoman, Greek, Roman and Persian Empires, as well as being the birthplace of three of the world's biggest religions. However, it has struggled to enjoy the tourism of neighbours Egypt, Turkey and Cyprus. It's constant troubles since its birth in the 40s isn't the only thing travellers have to circumnavigate.
1. Israel makes it difficult to travel to neighbouring countries
Even though Israel is at peace with Egypt and Jordan, they charge and whooping 180 NSI per person (£36) exit tax and make it as difficult as possible to cross the border with endless checks and restrictions. And it's border with Lebanon is permanently closed. If you want a little Middle Eastern jaunt, head to Jordan and take it from there.
2. Customer service is non-existent
Everyone is rude. I mean everyone. People manning information desks will huff, roll their eyes and sigh while giving you timetable information that isn't featured anywhere else. Bus drivers will bemoan having to tell you their route and people who give you directions nearly always lie.
3. You must adhere to the rules of the Shabbat
Anyone who travels knows that sometimes a countries sensibilities are bent to accommodate travellers who perhaps aren't Muslim or Hindi. However, in Israel nothing is open for the Shabbat and public transport isn't running. Even if you expect your hotel to supply bread (being a service industry), it won't. So bare in mind, from Friday to Saturday night, everything is closed and there's no one about.
4. The police and army are aggressive
No matter what religion you are or why you're there, the police will automatically treat you like scum. They install blockades for no reason and refuse to answer questions, so don't ask them anything. Especially about anything related.
5. Public transport is very good
It's efficient, clean and cheap. It's brilliant for getting anywhere in Israel. The trains, buses, sheruts and trams are way better than the taxis and public transport at home. However, taxis are also very good and ample, if not more expensive.
6. Avoid Jerusalem during religious holidays
The aforementioned police and army see it as an excuse to throw their weight around. And you see the worst in religious humanity. It seems people care more about seeing a rock than being respectful to actual, real-life people around them.
7. Visit the Palestinian Territories
There's nothing like Arabic hospitality. And the same is true for Palestinians. Going there isn't for the faint-hearted. Not because of how Palestinians, Arabs or Islam is portrayed in the mainstream media but because of how appallingly they're treated by the Israeli authorities. I went knowing I would be angered and disgusted, it's a cause I've long fought but nothing can prepare you for the unjust brutality of the martial law you'll witness. That said, you'll never meet such a warm, generous, loving, kind, gentle, brave and resiliant people - how they maintain such dignity and hope while under criminal occupation will forever stay with you. And their standard farewell of "don't forget us" is obsolete as that's the one thing you'll never do.
First published on 09/01/2018 11:03