The best way to get there is via Cusco. I recommend you stay in the city for a few days and don't just use it as a base to get to Machu Picchu if you can.

1. Pack sun cream. Regardless of weather or season, you're a lot closer to the sun, so protect your skin.
2. Take your time. You'll be rushed through and you won't be able to back peddle. Take the photos you want when the opportunity arises and don't get intimidated by clock-watching guides.
3. You don't need six hours. The tour takes two hours max and there's not much to do otherwise, so insist on an earlier train.
4. You need your passport and paperwork. You'll be asked for it at the entrance gate like you're going through immigration.
5. It'll cost about £200 and you can book on the fly unless you want to go to Huayna Picchu (big mountain). It includes:
1. a driver to and from Ollantaytambo
2. return Inca Rail ticket from Ollantaytambo to Aguas Calientes
3. guide to the bus at Aguas Calientes
4. bus to Machu Picchu
5. entry fee
6. two-hour guided tour - it costs an extra 200S to get the bus from Machu Picchu to Aguas Calientes
6. Huayna Picchu is a dangerous hike with steep and narrow walkways. It's closed a lot and they only allow 300 people up there per day, so pre-book.Layer up, Peru has over 30 microclimates, so there's no telling what the weather will do.
7. Take a bottle of water, there are no refreshments up there.
8. There's a short walk up some steep stone steps, so sensible shoes.

 Originally published 30 September 2019