Che Guevara fell in love with historic Cusco (now a UNESCO heritage site) as it's where Peru's ancient pagan culture meets European imperialism.

Much like the local mistos (Peru has the highest number of native and mixed-race Andeans), it's the perfect fusion stayed true to who it is while embracing change and progress.

This is something that can be seen in every cobbled street, fountained square, winding stairways and stonewashed colonial buildings.

I stayed in a modern and newly refurbished boutique hotel called Abittare, a converted colonial coach house next to Kusicancha, opposite Qurikancha (Temple of The Sun) and two blocks from Plaza de Armas.

1. Go to an ayahuasca ceremony. I recommend going to the Shaman Shop by Iglesias de San Blas. Customer service is poor but they're slick, established and trusted, which is essential when messing with potent mind-bending drugs banned in all other countries.

2. Visit a culinary school. There are a few, but I recommend Marcelo Batatas. It's pricey but worth it as you get premium ingredients and cultural experience.

3. Cathedral that touched Che Guevara while on a motorcycle trip around South America and it's easy to see why. It's manmade spirituality you can't deny.

4. Hang out in the arty San Blas and buy some locally made crafts and textiles. It's seriously cool.

5. Walk up to around Saqsaywaman, Q'enco, Temple of The Sun and the hidden gem of Kusicancha (what's left of the Incan city before the Spanish built the colonial on top of it).

6. Visit the Incan museum to see the best collection of clothes, weapons, human bones, jewellery and ceramics outside Yale University (yeah, I went there).

7. Have a drink and shot some pool at Norton's Rat - the entrance is a missable doorway on Santa Catalina Angosta

8. Eat tamales at San Pedro Market

9. Mooch around Plaza de Armas. There's always some festival or activity going on, so just hang out in the gardens or perch on the steps of the surrounding buildings, watching the sun go down and the people come up.

10. Get lost. It's harder than you think as it's so small but get away from the tourist traps and see the real Cusco.
 
The city is perfectly positioned to see one of the many places in Peru. I planned and failed to visit the Amazon (ran out of time), Chanchan (part of Amazon trip) and Lake Titicaca (farmers striking against tax hikes blocked roads meaning I wouldn't be able to catch my flight). All doable in a day from Cusco..

Originally published 30 September 2019