The ancient Incan capital isn't short of fantastic places to eat. From quaint little hole-in-the-wall cafes to courtyard restaurants catering for all tastes. It's a foodies' wet dream.
I simply didn't have enough days to explore all of its culinary delights, but I ate my way around a fair few. Here are 6 of the best:
1. Papacho's
On Sta Catalina Agnosta, next to Paddy's Irish Pub (there's always one) and opposite ex-pat favourite watering hole, Norton's Rat lies Papacho's.
Every local will tell you it's the best burger place in town. Add to that the spectacular views (if you're lucky enough to get a table on the wooden filigree balcony) of Plaza de Armas Square, it's the perfect spot for chilling out and people watching.
2. Seafood Kitchen
On the other side of the square is Seafood Kitchen. It's exactly as its described - superb seafood in a light, airy, modern top-floor restaurant (most around the square are, by the way, unless you head to McDonald's or Starbucks) with friendly service and mostly tourist clientele.
I had the ceviche calle which also came with a range of dipping sauces you could choose from.
3. Marcelo Batata
A bit further up from the plaza, behind the cathedral on Calle Palacio is one of the swankiest restaurants in Cusco, Marcelo Batata. It's everything you'd expect from this calibre of restaurant; fussy presentation, modern vintage decor, attentive waiters and Euro-Peruvian fusion food.
And for 400S you can spend a day in their culinary school. I'd highly recommend it, you learn a lot about Peru and Cusco, as well as learning how to cook local staples alpaca lomo saltado and machi machi ceviche.
4. Pachapapa
Directly opposite the Iglesia de San Blas is one of the best courtyard restaurants in the city. It's classically Peruvian, from the decor to the entertainment.
I had my first taste of beef lomo saltado and pisco here after a long day trawling the party shops and chatting to shamans about ayahuasca ceremonies. It's the perfect place to unwind with a book, meet people and take in the chilled atmosphere.
5. Green Point
Vegetarians and vegans are well catered for in Cusco. The best is Green Point on Carmen Bajo, about a five-minute walk east from Pachapapa (turn right if you're looking at the San Blas church).
Fantastic varied menu in an arty, industrial, upcycled, hipster setting with a cool outdoor space.
6. Km.O
Climb the narrow stairs and head behind San Blas church, on the crossroads of Calle Plazoleta and Calle Tantapata, is the bar Km.O.
Its beermat, photo and funny lined walls are standard for any rock/live music bar found anywhere in the world. However, this one sells splendid pub food in the shape of pintxo. Come for the food, stay for music and wild night out.
7. Cholos Tap Room
Okay, not technically a restaurant but it does serve great food along with a substantial range of craft beers.
Its derelict pub garden gives an off-the-beaten-track feel, but it's art deco feel and vintage posters adorning the walls of this reclaimed colonial villa give it a different feel entirely.
Enjoy standard pub menu delights like burgers and chicken wings.
8. San Pedro Market
A list wouldn't be complete without a street food entry. San Pedro Market off Cascaparo is about a 15-minute walk south from Plaza de Armas.
Here you'll find everything from ponchos to legs of lamb. However, head to the back to find the food hall. Lots of homemade chefs take up a stall to serve everything from chicken soup, fried chicken and, what I came here for, tamales and Mate (Peruvians love Nestle's Mate for some reason).
It's the sort of place I would expect Anthony Bourdain to wax lyrical about. In fact, sitting here made me sad I never met him.
There are so many eateries to choose from, it's hard to whittle it down to just eight. Unlike most cities in the world, if you stick in and around the tourist trap of Plaza de Armas, you'll be just fine. But you'll get a lot more atmosphere in the bodega lined streets of Ruinas and Calle Plateros, where you can watch the city come alive as the sunsets.
Originally published September 30, 2019
