The last European frontier, where east meets west, Istanbul isn't short of trendy cocktail bars, quirky coffee shops and hipster eateries. You'll find cuisine from all over the world. And everywhere you go, you'll get the unmistakable Arabic hospitality mixed with European modernism. Plus the benefit of superior ingredients, thanks to the unrivalled Mediterranean climate.
Becos Bar and Restaurant in Beyoglu
1. Arada Cafe
In the trendy district of Galata, Arada could have been lifted from a Hoxton or Williamsburg neighbourhood. This Instagram ready cafe offer kitch, retro decor, luscious greenery covering the alleyway veranda and more food than you could possibly eat for breakfast.
All this food plus tea set us back 1,000 lira. And we had to leave lots behind. My tip is get one breakfast to share between two.
2. Varuna Gezgin Cafe
A stone's throw from Mahalvelli, just off Istanbul's Oxford Street, Istiklal Avenue in Galata is Varuna.
This chain cafe markets itself as a backpacker destination. We were treated to a video of a chap who went round the world doing his weird little dance next to various landmarks and neighbourhoods. It was strangely hypnotic, but it was too much of distraction from the book-lined walls, retro bric-a-brac and industrial decor.
However, if you're after you standard burgers and pizza enjoyed in a chilled, cosy pub-like atmosphere, you'd be hard pushed to find better.
3. Nardis Jazz Cafe
The food and bar snacks in Nardis are worth the trip here alone, however, you don't come here for the food. Nardis is the oldest and best jazz clubs in the city.
Istanbul is known for its jazz scene. This genre of formless music is alive, well and celebrated. Adding to the Byzantium prestige and bohemian feel. Don't believe me, watch the video.
4. Nola Restaurant
Spitting distance from Galata Tower is Nola. This is popular with Istanbul's glam set. Filled with girls and guys dressed in designer gear and manicured within an inch of their lives. Don't let that put you off.
It's in a very hipster district, so even the walk there is a visual delight with graffiti on every wall and cute little boutique shops. However, Nola sticks out like a sore thumb with it's Costa Del Sol awnings. The inside is a different story. You're transported to a top-end, bare-bricked, industrial restaurant with a vast front garden for al-fresco dining.
The traditionally Turkish food and comprehensive cocktail menu are superb and the service is second to none.
5. Becos Restaurant
Located in the trendy Beyoglu district, nestled between Madame Tussauds, Aga Hammami and Insta Mecca of rainbow stairs are equally Insta friendly alleyways filled with bars and cafes with outdoor seating dominating the stairs. And here is where you'll find Becos.
I'm not recommending Becos directly as such, but just drinking and eating in this area. It's beautiful and cool, just like me.
6. Eleos seafood restaurant
If you're after traditionally Anatolian food and freshly caught fish overlooking the Bosphorus, then Eleos is the place to go. Located in Beyoglu and on a popular shopping street, it's easy to find.
Sit on the rooftop or inside the modern, clean nautical (but sophisticated) decorated restaurant. It's popular with locals and travellers alike, but it's mostly Chinese and American tourists are the catch de jour.
It's a pretty standard restaurant but the food is good.
7. Moretenders' Cocktail Crib
In the boho area of Istanbul, you can move for interesting looking bars and cafes, you can't really go wrong wherever you end up around here, but I wanted to give a special shout out to Moretenders' Cocktail Crib which has the feel of the exclusive member's only bars you get in London's West End.
I felt like Jay Gatsy with my expertly made cocktail in a vintage glass listening to jazz while reclining on velvet sofa.
My top tip, don't get distracted by lists like these. There isn't a shortage of cool bars or traditional old-man cafes or fantastic places to eat. Walk around, get lost in the rabbit warren of alleyways and cobbled streets, you're guaranteed to find a great little place.
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First published 5 October 2019
