Megaliths are a phenomenon found all over the world, from Ireland and France to Stonehenge and Senegal. Gambia boasts its own and is one of two UNESCO World Heritage sites.
Located in the village of Wassu, Niani. The site is on the southern end of the River Gambia. So it takes about 4 hours to drive there from Barra.
It's better to tie it in with a trip to somewhere close, like Janjanbureh or Gambia National Park. But even the journey is worth it, as you see Gambia's breathtaking landscape and the traditional villages that are dotted along the way.
It cost 13,000 dalasis (about £240 in September 2019). This took us to the national park, stone circle and Fort James (and included transport, a private taxi, a guide and lunch).
The site has two, small, lo-fi museums. One with a storyboard and info about the site and other about village life.
These hugely pale in comparison to the mysticism of the stones themselves.
Dated between 3rd century BC and 6th century AD (big timeframe, right?), the stones are thought to be a burial site, as human bones, pottery and funerary objects were found here.
I walked through the ankle-length grass (which made me itch) up the path, you're faced with the tallest and only single-standing column. Thought to be the burial site of a king.
Adjacent to it is the first stone circle you come across. You immediately notice that every stone; standing, leaning and fallen has rocks piled on top of them. People come here, charge the rocks with their hopes, prayers and wishes while placing them atop the megalith.
I did this also, although on these trips, you're rarely left enough time to feel the energy of where you are and contemplate for it to have any meaning... And if you want to know what I wished for, read my blog about Gambia National Park.
The site is small, although there is a lot of green space in the compound. It's also not very closed in, so you can enjoy the vast green vistas of paddy fields, mountains and grasslands.
The middle stone circle at the back can also be seen on the 50 dalasi note and is instantly recognisable is you look at it from the left-hand side or 9 o'clock.
The far end has two stone circles. One has a huge fig tree growing. We're told that UNESCO has banned any excavation of the site, so they don't know how many or who are buried in the "mass grave" circles, but I like to think they live on the fig tree and beautiful wildflowers that grow.
The final stone circle has two very distinct slabs in the middle. What we'd recognise as a grave. This is thought to be the resting place of the king's warriors who are held in very high regard.
The pockmarked rusty-coloured columns meticulously arranged in a circle found in the Gambia and neighbouring Senegal show that even without the benefit of internet and travel, human experience and progress is mirrored everywhere - we have more in common than divide us.
First published on 13/09/2019 20:11
