Wedged in between troubled Yemen, gaudy UAE and human rights abusers, Saudi Arabia, Oman is an unusual destination, but one unmissable as part of a Middle Eastern odyssey.
The wedding cake city of Muscat is Oman's capital. It's one of the few cities in the world that can boast a beach and just an 8-hour flight away from London, it's the perfect place to blow the cobwebs away and explore a region otherwise ravaged by war.
If you're planning to get a taste of the real Middle-East without the threat of religious fundamentalism or war, here is what I learnt to help you make the most of your trip:
1. Muscat is liberal
As a woman, I could walk around wearing normal Western clothes, with no problem. Walking around in a bikini top and hotpants, like they do in Europe, would draw a few judgemental stares, but dressing "normally" is absolutely fine.
Also, you can hit Qurum beach; sunbathe in a bikini and take a dip in the bath-warm waters of the Gulf of Oman and no one will bat an eyelid. You're basically left alone.
As with anywhere (even in an office in the UK), you'll be asked if you're married and have children. Saying no to either or both will raise curious eyebrows. Oman, while liberal, is still conservative, so they find the extent of female emancipation in the West fascinating.
2. Watch out for the currency
The currency is called rials (pounds) and baisa (pence), abbreviated to OMR. Menus and prices are listed like, 3.500 OMR, but this doesn't mean three thousand, five hundred rials. It's three rials, 500 baisas.
Also, they use UAE dirhams. At the time of publishing, 10 dirhams was worth 1 rial. One to watch out for, as they may give you change in dirhams, but it's pretty easy to spend, so you won't be stuck with currency you can't use.
3. English is spoken, but it's sketchy
I know this sounds really colonial, but as English speakers, we're spoilt that everyone in the world has a pretty good, working knowledge of English. Even though Muscat has a large ex-pat diaspora due to the thriving oil industry, the grasp of the queen's is less than basic. So make allowances when talking to taxi drivers, waiters, receptionists, etc.
Everyone is really friendly, but unlike most countries who see a Brit and see it as an opportunity to practice, the Omanis are too shy, proud, quiet to do this. But I can't stress enough that everyone is super friendly, helpful and never hassle anyone.
Again, unlike any other Arab nation, the stall owners in the souk will try to entice you into their shop, but are not as bullish are their Egyptian, Moroccan, Tunisian or Palestinian counterparts,
4. Diversity, but not as we know it
Due to its location, there are a lot of Indian and Pakistani immigrants, also people from across the Arab world, from Turkey to Iran.
Even though its oceans are warmed by the African continent, there aren't many black people - either as residents or tourists. I can't imagine anyone in Oman being rude or aggressive (they actively avoid angry situations), I don't know what their opinion of other races is. As a tourist, I hope they'll be as welcoming and laid-back regardless of your ethnic background.
As mentioned before, although the Sultan has done wonders to modernise, same-sex couples are a non-existent sight. There were gay couples in my hotel, but they were affectionate or tactile at all. If you're an LGBT traveller, I would approach with caution, but as I said before, I can't imagine anyone being rude or agressive with you because of it.
5. Location, location, location
I stayed in the commercial district, having the malls and Grand Mosque on my doorstep, but Muscat is nothing like its European, Indian and Middle-Eastern neighbours where they've built on top of what's there. They expanded on what's there, so it's pretty spaced out, which means the mall and mosque were still a taxi ride away.
Taxis are pretty cheap, but none have meters or satnav so make sure you have a map or address of where you're staying. Also, make sure you factor this into your budgets, as you'll be using taxis a lot. There isn't an underground and buses aren't that frequent or easy.
That said, it's pretty easy to walk from Muttrah corniche to Old Muscat. You shouldn't need a taxi if you're used to coastal strolls along a very well kept, flat promenade. If you do get a taxi, it's about 5 OMR.
I would recommend staying in the Qurum area of Muscat. There are plenty of restaurants, it's right on the beach and close to cultural hotspots of Muttrah and Old Muscat.
6. A different caliber of tourist
A friend kept telling me that Oman was a very Conde Nast destination. And it is, there are a quite a few European tourists and some Canadian. Of course, you can't escape your Korean, Chinese and Japanese tourists, but the numbers are small.
It's not really what I would consider a destination for families, even though it's quiet and clean. There isn't much in the way of activities for children and there aren't many families so your little darlings may annoy all the other tourists.
If you're looking for a party city, I suggest going elsewhere. There isn't a bar or cafe culture in Muscat, alcoholic drinks can be bought in some places, but nowhere near as ubiquitous as the rest of the world. I didn't spot any casinos or strip clubs, but I'm sure they exist. Nightclubs are in hotels, so don't come here expecting Magaluf or even Mayfair.
First published on 09/01/2018
