Today was yet another lazy day. I have to say, for someone who's pooh-poohed resort stays and tourists, I'm bloody enjoying it. But I guess it depends on what you want and need from time away.
That said, I still got treated to this apparent traditional folk song from a man that goes by the name The Smiling Boy. He tells me he's one of seven children and he's the only one who went to school. He welcomes the rains because he's from a family of farmers and if the crops fail he has to support them financially.
The Smiling Man from The Smiling Coast reminds me of my Western privilege. He bounces around laughing, making jokes and enjoying every drop life gives him. Yet we in the West have everything - cutting edge tech, money, the opportunity to travel, eat the best food, education, and opportunities to achieve whatever we want and yet mental health issues are on the rise.
We may sneer Africans, assume they're uncivilised and enjoy playing their saviours, but there's no doubt they could teach us a thing or two too.
The best thing about the day was a little jaunt to Senegambia, where everything goes on. All the clubs and restaurants are on this strip. We went to a highly rated restaurant called The Butcher's Shop and I'd highly recommend it.
It's very European in its sensibilities. With a deli like counter and shelves of wine bottles. The food came in fancy oblong plates and little baskets for the chips, just like any other gastropub in the UK.
The food was amazing. I had a local dish called Russo Busso (495D), cooked in its own bone marrow, mama style and chips. It was really tasty, dripping in gravy and onions, you could eat the beef with a spoon, it was so tender. And the fries looked double cooked.
It was happy hour, so I had a Smiling Coast cocktail (195D) - vodka, wonjo (juice made from Sorrell), baobab (fruit found in Africa) syrup and lime.
Our fab taxi driver called Wyre took us there and back for 400D, bless him he waited while we ate.
Unfortunately, while we watched the lightning on the jetty bar, we became the meal for mossies. Don't you just hate how they buzz in your ear after they've feasted on your blood, like showing off about causing you misery and possibly life-threatening diseases? I'm sure they're a crucial part of our fragile eco-system, but currently, I'm struggling to see it.
However, what I do see is possible the best nature video I've ever - or will ever take.
First published 11 Sept 2019
