I had no expectation of Berlin. It wasn't somewhere I particularly aspired to visit, but out of all the cities in Europe Berlin sparked my interest the most. Decadent, hedonistic and bohemian with its cabaret and 24-hour drinking.
We stayed in a hotel in the old East. The rooms were huge in a big block surrounded by wide rows. I'm guessing these were former homes of the Eastern Bloc residents. Overlooking rows of more prefab blocks and wasteland. I love Communist architecture, working class and strong.
Berlin is the best example I've seen - other former Soviet countries have spatterings but East Berlin is a city (I hasten to add, I'm yet to visit Moscow).
Further up was East Berlin town, concrete fountains and railway bridges surrounded by shops, bars and restaurants. Squares were made welcoming by fairy lights on trees and art working gracing bare concrete walls. The Transmission Tower the looked like a 60s vision of the future and the cherry on the Soviet cake dominated the skyline.
The difference between East and West was incredible. The minute you cross the Berlin Wall (whatever's left of it) you enter the realm of King Herman, Franz Ferdinand, etc. Huge, grand neo-classical buildings inspired by ancient Greece, the sort can expect to find in all European cities - ticking all the boxes, becoming formulaic.
In the old East, it was boho and a breeding ground for freedom of expression. Full of artist's squats that anyone can visit and hedonistic techno clubs. Although the East probably looked very different in the 20s than it does now, pre-Cold War but post Great War, I could see where movies like Nosferatu and expressionist German horror got their inspiration from. There were claws on every corner and the Judderman lurking behind every tree.
A trip to Berlin wouldn't be complete without a trip to a cabaret. Unfortunately, I didn't get to go to the most famous burlesque cabaret in the city, as it was sold out. I did have art deco inspired and decadent artwork from them which is the epitome of old Berlin. The cabaret I did go to was interesting and exhilarating, apart from the comedy intervals which affirmed the German stereotype of lack of humour - he at one point ate a carrot, spun around and then pulled a whole carrot out of his pocket... Huh? I would have prefered a traditional burlesque show but enjoyed the modern take nonetheless.
My issue with Berlin was the people. I felt them hostile and unfriendly. Taxis wouldn't stop, bouncers wouldn't allow us in and people treated us like we weren't there. Putting a dampener on my visit and ruining my experience of this fascinating city. After all, it was the Germans who first took a chance on the Beatles (even if it was for practice purposes).
The highlight was going on an open top bus tour, which a voice in the headphones claimed the tragic event of WWII was 70% of Berlin being destroyed by the Russians, I accidentally yelled 'not the 11 million people they gassed'. I think this sums up the German attitude.
My advice, stay bohemian and hang around with the arty underground of the old East.
First published April 2005.